I've always loved this quote and am finding it to be true on the trail, even when you're taking life at two miles per hour. During my first week out of Damascus, I've seen things go from a crowded whirlwind experience to a much slower more solitary one. Initially, with everyone leaving town around the same time, the shelters and campsites were fairly crowded and I was frequently coming across others on the trail. Now, since I have been doing fairly high mileage days given the terrain (17+mi/day) and I didn't stop in Atkins (where many others stopped) I feel that I've passed many of the people whose company I was enjoying. Today I am resting in Bland (as exciting as it sounds) in an effort to regain some energy and protect myself from injury. No one else from the trail is here. With it being a few miles off the trail and not having much to offer, this town isn't a popular place to resupply. Atkins before it was and Pearisburg (the next town up is as well).
This is sort of where the rubber meets the trail for me. The high and excitement of Trail Days has worn off and spending more time alone, the experience is becoming less of a social one except either at night at shelters with a smaller number of people than before or on occasion when I do run into someone on the trail. At times, boredom has set in and I'll use my iPod to get me a little more motivated. Other times I'll just let my mind wander and this usually leads to my slowing down.
Besides seeing fewer people, another challenge has been the change in weather. When I got on the trail, it was cool and misty. One day it rained lightly-moderately, but it was comfortable. This weather helped me get through the tough sections over Whitetop and Rogers, the second and the highest peaks in Virginia. The climbs were challenging but the cooler temps made them more manageable. Plus, seeing the wild Highland Ponies added to the excitement. One cold stormy night, I was crammed into the eaves of the second level of a shelter over 5,500' elevation. Rain was pounding on the metal roof inches from my face as thunder rumbled and below ponies were chewing on the edge of the shelter for the salt. I didn't sleep well, but it was exciting. Now, the weather has turned warmer (80s). Water is getting scarcer and the terrain less interesting. Instead of hitting peaks, we just traverse long wooded ridges below the ridgetop. I understand now why many people say that boredom is one of the hardest things about the trail. To keep going, you need to not be focused on taking in views or peaks but rather to be focused on taking in that which is within. Yesterday, I had a moment of clarity where I stopped and truly appreciated where I was and what I was doing and was so thankful.
While the last few days have been challenging, next week looks better. The trail is fairly smooth for the next 40 miles and I'll be hitting a place on the trail called Woodhole Hostel. Bunks there have mattresses and cost $10 a night. They focus on sustainable living through beekeeping, organic gardening, yoga, and massage therapy. They have electricity and hot showers, organic tea/coffee in the morning and I can take part in local/organic community dinner for $12 or breakfast for $6.50. Yoga is free. They have Internet, laundry (machine & hand-wash), pizza, smoothies, and shuttles into town. It's no wonder this place is called "a slice of Heaven not to be missed" in the book. After Woodshole, I'll hit Pearisburg where I can get a town meal before continuing another 75mi to Catawba where I'll see my dear friend Heather, whom I haven't seen for a couple of years and her baby whom I've yet to meet. I'll slow down there for sure as this is something I wouldn't want to miss for anything.
My friend No Worries said yesterday that the trail was his military. That it was breaking him down and rebuilding himself into a soldier in the army of his life. I liked that and feel that if I push through the pain, the mental challenges, and the conditions (weather, trail, and physical) that I too will be rebuilt, or as the title of this blog puts it I will experience rebirth by trail and by trial. I will push on to be all I can be.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Friday, May 13, 2011
The Beginning...
Following a wonderful send off that consisted of going for dinner and then to see David Crosby and Graham Nash with Jamie and Josh, I feverishly deconstructed and reconstructed my pack, trying to shed more weight from my almost 60lb pack. Trying to sleep was a bit like when I was a kid and it was the night before Christmas. In the morning, I was still adjusting my pack when Kristie arrived to take me to the Brattleboro train station. The train was late, so that gave us more time to talk before I left.
The train ride was long, but I met some interesting people. Most of the time was spent either writing in my journal, reading, or zoning out listening to my iPod. So glad I brought it. When I got to DC, I had a little bit of confusion trying to find the Metro, but confusion is nothing new in our nation's capitol. Finding it, I took the train to Bethesda to stay at my friend's apartment even though she is currently out of the country. Her roommate was very gracious. I enjoyed meeting her very much. Like most good Italians she was an excellent, though humble, chef.
In the morning she made me espresso and yogurt with granola for breakfast and then directed me to the trolley stop so I didn't have to lug my pack the almost a mile to the station. It was funny the night before getting strange looks from people out on the town as they saw my wanking through downtown with my huge pack. Back in DC, confusion struck again as I couldn't find anyone who could tell me where my Greyhound bus would be picking me up. When I found the spot there was no bus there and it was a couple minutes past the departure time. Fortunately, the bus was running late so I made it. The ride down to Charlottesville was uneventful, but there I met a old AT hiker named Kando. We sat together for the seven hours of the ride and stops and shared stories. He had gotten injured and was heading home to Nashville. He gave me good advice and I was sorry when I had to leave him. We'll stay in touch though. Hopefully he'll be reading this.
In Marion, my hired ride was waiting and he picked up a poor guy who had been waiting at the bus stop for his buddies to pick him up for seven hours! We eventually found out that his friends got drunk and forgot about him. In later conversation I gave him his trailname: The Boss. In part it comes from his real name being Tony. At "The Toxic Waste Dump", the free camping area that used to be used for hazardous waste disposal, we met Superman, City Slicker, ManDog, and a couple others who we hung out with before finding his deadbeat friends. I then left to set up my camp and then headed into town.
My ride Wee Willy told me that Qunicey's was the best (of two) bar in town so I went there, got a pitcher of Yuenling, and sat down with some other hikers instantly making friends with little bird, Fleghm, Catalyst, and others. The highlight was us hikers singing a very loud and rowdy version of 500 Miles by The Proclaimers. After that, it was back to camp where I bounced from site to site making friends.
Today, I went to the post office and mailed back 6lbs of stuff from my pack, did the seven mile roundtrip hike to the Tennessee border, walked to the grocery store for bagels, and ate a "Tater Burger" (a burger with fries, bacon crumbles, and cheese) for lunch washing it down with sweet tea. I also bought some cool stickers for my journal and Nalgene. One I love says "I'm just a social drinker, but I smoke crack like a motherfucker". Tonight there's supposed to be a big drum circle and a bonfire, but it looks like rain so who knows. Tomorrow is the backpacker parade and some other fun activities including lessons and then a contra dance and then more partying.
Sunday I'll probably leave town even though the festival won't be over. I'll have to get a move on. The trail down here is very smooth. Not like the rocky rooty trails of New Hampshire and there are lots of switchbacks so it appears that it's never too steep. That's just my impression from the 3.5 miles of trail I hiked twice today. Maybe my opinion will change. Stay tuned and find out!
The train ride was long, but I met some interesting people. Most of the time was spent either writing in my journal, reading, or zoning out listening to my iPod. So glad I brought it. When I got to DC, I had a little bit of confusion trying to find the Metro, but confusion is nothing new in our nation's capitol. Finding it, I took the train to Bethesda to stay at my friend's apartment even though she is currently out of the country. Her roommate was very gracious. I enjoyed meeting her very much. Like most good Italians she was an excellent, though humble, chef.
In the morning she made me espresso and yogurt with granola for breakfast and then directed me to the trolley stop so I didn't have to lug my pack the almost a mile to the station. It was funny the night before getting strange looks from people out on the town as they saw my wanking through downtown with my huge pack. Back in DC, confusion struck again as I couldn't find anyone who could tell me where my Greyhound bus would be picking me up. When I found the spot there was no bus there and it was a couple minutes past the departure time. Fortunately, the bus was running late so I made it. The ride down to Charlottesville was uneventful, but there I met a old AT hiker named Kando. We sat together for the seven hours of the ride and stops and shared stories. He had gotten injured and was heading home to Nashville. He gave me good advice and I was sorry when I had to leave him. We'll stay in touch though. Hopefully he'll be reading this.
In Marion, my hired ride was waiting and he picked up a poor guy who had been waiting at the bus stop for his buddies to pick him up for seven hours! We eventually found out that his friends got drunk and forgot about him. In later conversation I gave him his trailname: The Boss. In part it comes from his real name being Tony. At "The Toxic Waste Dump", the free camping area that used to be used for hazardous waste disposal, we met Superman, City Slicker, ManDog, and a couple others who we hung out with before finding his deadbeat friends. I then left to set up my camp and then headed into town.
My ride Wee Willy told me that Qunicey's was the best (of two) bar in town so I went there, got a pitcher of Yuenling, and sat down with some other hikers instantly making friends with little bird, Fleghm, Catalyst, and others. The highlight was us hikers singing a very loud and rowdy version of 500 Miles by The Proclaimers. After that, it was back to camp where I bounced from site to site making friends.
Today, I went to the post office and mailed back 6lbs of stuff from my pack, did the seven mile roundtrip hike to the Tennessee border, walked to the grocery store for bagels, and ate a "Tater Burger" (a burger with fries, bacon crumbles, and cheese) for lunch washing it down with sweet tea. I also bought some cool stickers for my journal and Nalgene. One I love says "I'm just a social drinker, but I smoke crack like a motherfucker". Tonight there's supposed to be a big drum circle and a bonfire, but it looks like rain so who knows. Tomorrow is the backpacker parade and some other fun activities including lessons and then a contra dance and then more partying.
Sunday I'll probably leave town even though the festival won't be over. I'll have to get a move on. The trail down here is very smooth. Not like the rocky rooty trails of New Hampshire and there are lots of switchbacks so it appears that it's never too steep. That's just my impression from the 3.5 miles of trail I hiked twice today. Maybe my opinion will change. Stay tuned and find out!
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
One week, then the trail I will seek
One week from today, I'll be arriving in Damascus and beginning this epic journey. Of course, in mind mind it began a while ago. Yesterday was my last day of classes and all my assignments are done, but I still have one more shift at the library and two more days at my loathsome internship before I can really focus on getting ready. Still I've been getting closer with each passing day. I went to the chiropractor today, figuring I ought to have my back adjusted before I carry a 45lb pack on it six days a week for ten weeks. Man I couldn't believe how much he cracked me and how good it felt. I still have a lot of tension in my shoulders, but I'm taller than I was when I went in there!
Last night I figured out where all my maildrops are going to be and realized that Shenandoah is going to be a pain. My options there are either carry two weeks worth of food during that stretch or make a 16mi roundtrip haul to go into town and pick up a drop. I think I'm going to go with the former of the two options. It'll mean greater pack weight, but fewer miles. It was a little sad figuring out where my last drop will be (Salisbury, CT) because it had me thinking about the end of the journey I haven't even finished getting ready for. At least now I know that I'm going to have a friend in that area join me for a stretch.
Figuring out the maildrops was fun to think about, but at the same time I was required to figure out when I expect to be where and I felt I lost something by having established a rough plan. I refuse to go so far as to figure out where I plan to spend each night. I prefer to let that unfold on a day by day or week by week basis. The more unstructured I can keep this trip the better... but a hiker's gotta eat! I also figured out that I may not be able to update this blog on exactly a weekly basis as some towns I'll stop in don't have internet access at the library. C'est la vie. I'll update when and where I can. For now, I'm just going to focus on getting ready and seeing some friends before I leave.
Last night I figured out where all my maildrops are going to be and realized that Shenandoah is going to be a pain. My options there are either carry two weeks worth of food during that stretch or make a 16mi roundtrip haul to go into town and pick up a drop. I think I'm going to go with the former of the two options. It'll mean greater pack weight, but fewer miles. It was a little sad figuring out where my last drop will be (Salisbury, CT) because it had me thinking about the end of the journey I haven't even finished getting ready for. At least now I know that I'm going to have a friend in that area join me for a stretch.
Figuring out the maildrops was fun to think about, but at the same time I was required to figure out when I expect to be where and I felt I lost something by having established a rough plan. I refuse to go so far as to figure out where I plan to spend each night. I prefer to let that unfold on a day by day or week by week basis. The more unstructured I can keep this trip the better... but a hiker's gotta eat! I also figured out that I may not be able to update this blog on exactly a weekly basis as some towns I'll stop in don't have internet access at the library. C'est la vie. I'll update when and where I can. For now, I'm just going to focus on getting ready and seeing some friends before I leave.
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